The Michelin Guide revealed its debut selection of restaurants in Dubai this June, with nine venues receiving one Michelin star and two honoured with two stars.
In this series called Star-grazing, The National visits a few of the spots that won stars or were included in the Bib Gourmand category, which is “not quite a star, but most definitely not a consolation prize”, according to the guide.
Ossiano, the sixth restaurant in our series, is located at Atlantis, The Palm and received one star.
The story behind Ossiano
At 36 years old, Gregoire Berger has already established himself as one of the most groundbreaking chefs in the UAE — and beyond.
The Frenchman had run Ossiano, Atlantis’s famed underwater seafood restaurant, for six years before he announced he would be stepping away in January last year.
However, by March this year, he was back, seemingly reinvigorated by his time away and brimming with ideas that have since earned the restaurant a Michelin star.
His upbringing in Brittany, north-west France, looms large, but dishes on Ossiano's menu are similarly inspired by sunsets in South America, his wife’s Middle Eastern heritage or the ham and cheese sandwiches he used to eat as a young chef — now reimagined as a delicate croque monsieur served on top of an actual clock.
“The idea was to be able to create a sense of nostalgia,” Berger explains. “We decided to plate the dish on a clock where the time is going backwards, which provokes a lot of emotions in the guest.”
Berger was a particularly vocal advocate for a local Michelin Guide in Dubai, although many in the culinary community were surprised when he was only awarded a single star. “The Michelin Guide coming to town is the collective achievement of pushing standards and boundaries in the region, and something many of us have been working on for some years by raising the bar, driving sustainability and seasonality, and developing our craft and personality,” Berger previously told The National.
What's on the Michelin-starred menu?
“Everything must provoke emotions,” Berger says of his 11-step tasting menu (Dh1,095 per person), which is dubbed Metonoia and pays homage to the riches of the ocean. The dishes are guided by the chef’s lifelong interest in seasonality and foraging, but are artfully interwoven with his own personal memories and experiences.
Berger’s menu is a multifaceted, multisensory experience. The chef is mindful of appealing to the eyes as much as the taste buds, and presentation is integral to the stories he is trying to tell. From bowls shaped like oversized crabs to cauliflower leaves mimicking the movement of corals and potatoes disguised as lumps of charcoal, the plating is playful, sculptural and almost too pretty to eat.
All ingredients are sustainably sourced from the ocean or within 50 kilometres of a coastline. The marine theme is naturally reinforced by Ossiano’s views into one of the world’s largest aquariums. Multicoloured fish, rays and sharks glide past your table, helping to create a fully immersive experience.
Berger’s deeply personal culinary saga begins with Snacks of the Sea, which includes a delicious caviar and gold flake-topped nori tartlet. It sets the tone for a meal that explores and elevates all the traditional flavours of the ocean.
Next up, the evocatively named Back Where the Mist Meets the Sea. Wafts of dry ice rise from a bowl like a gentle mist, enveloping a dish consisting of a base of soft cauliflower cream overlaid with home-made smoked trout topped with pickled cauliflower and a salty seawater foam. It is a prime example of Berger’s propensity to play with texture as well as flavour.
The experiential nature of the meal means there are also some detours from the menu. “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone,” chef Aurelian Durand, Berger’s right-hand man, proclaims as he presents us with a dish consisting of tiny slivers of jellyfish, shrimp and green apple in a consomme of seawater and dill. The flavours are a little overwhelming for my tastes, but the point is more that Berger is trying to lead his guests places where they might not otherwise think to go.
For the next chapter, an oversized glazed “bowl” shaped like a crab, with a bundle of herbs clasped in its pincers, is set in front of us. Safely ensconced within is a dish of Brittany brown crab, fragrant kari gosse spice mix and bouillabaisse essence.
Other highlights include Feeling the Warmth of the West Side, an umami dashi served in a delicate whelk shell sitting on a bed of white sand; and a scallop dusted with a fine scattering of pure white truffle and artichoke, which alludes to snowy days in the French countryside and is fittingly called Late Afternoon Walks Through the Woods. A burnt leek is stuffed with clams for Dreaming Under the Starlight, while mascarpone and wakame are combined and crafted into the shape of unexpectedly realistic-looking olives in Back to the Roots.
Perfectly paired with either alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks, Berger’s masterclass in culinary storytelling is an experience to be savoured. It is complex and multilayered but also, at its heart, whimsical and fun.
This is emphasised midway though our meal, when we are escorted to the bar and treated to a (non-tequila) tequila shot. The ritual begins with a sprinkling of “salt”, in this case some rock pop, followed by a shot of a lightly spiced, non-alcoholic liquid with undertones of chilli and black pepper, and followed by a yuzu sorbet in the shape of a perfect lemon wedge. It’s a little reminder that in Berger’s domain, you should always expect the unexpected.
Look out for Michelin-lauded restaurant Armani Ristorante, coming up next in The National's Star-grazing series
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: HyperSpace
Started: 2020
Founders: Alexander Heller, Rama Allen and Desi Gonzalez
Based: Dubai, UAE
Sector: Entertainment
Number of staff: 210
Investment raised: $75 million from investors including Galaxy Interactive, Riyadh Season, Sega Ventures and Apis Venture Partners
Dubai Rugby Sevens
November 30-December 2, at The Sevens, Dubai
Gulf Under 19
Pool A – Abu Dhabi Harlequins, Jumeirah College Tigers, Dubai English Speaking School 1, Gems World Academy
Pool B – British School Al Khubairat, Bahrain Colts, Jumeirah College Lions, Dubai English Speaking School 2
Pool C - Dubai College A, Dubai Sharks, Jumeirah English Speaking School, Al Yasmina
Pool D – Dubai Exiles, Dubai Hurricanes, Al Ain Amblers, Deira International School
FROM%20THE%20ASHES
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Khalid%20Fahad%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Shaima%20Al%20Tayeb%2C%20Wafa%20Muhamad%2C%20Hamss%20Bandar%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The specs
Engine: 0.8-litre four cylinder
Power: 70bhp
Torque: 66Nm
Transmission: four-speed manual
Price: $1,075 new in 1967, now valued at $40,000
On sale: Models from 1966 to 1970
'How To Build A Boat'
Jonathan Gornall, Simon & Schuster
Dates for the diary
To mark Bodytree’s 10th anniversary, the coming season will be filled with celebratory activities:
- September 21 Anyone interested in becoming a certified yoga instructor can sign up for a 250-hour course in Yoga Teacher Training with Jacquelene Sadek. It begins on September 21 and will take place over the course of six weekends.
- October 18 to 21 International yoga instructor, Yogi Nora, will be visiting Bodytree and offering classes.
- October 26 to November 4 International pilates instructor Courtney Miller will be on hand at the studio, offering classes.
- November 9 Bodytree is hosting a party to celebrate turning 10, and everyone is invited. Expect a day full of free classes on the grounds of the studio.
- December 11 Yogeswari, an advanced certified Jivamukti teacher, will be visiting the studio.
- February 2, 2018 Bodytree will host its 4th annual yoga market.
The bio
Favourite book: Peter Rabbit. I used to read it to my three children and still read it myself. If I am feeling down it brings back good memories.
Best thing about your job: Getting to help people. My mum always told me never to pass up an opportunity to do a good deed.
Best part of life in the UAE: The weather. The constant sunshine is amazing and there is always something to do, you have so many options when it comes to how to spend your day.
Favourite holiday destination: Malaysia. I went there for my honeymoon and ended up volunteering to teach local children for a few hours each day. It is such a special place and I plan to retire there one day.
Scream%20VI
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Labour dispute
The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.
- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law
PROFILE OF HALAN
Started: November 2017
Founders: Mounir Nakhla, Ahmed Mohsen and Mohamed Aboulnaga
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport and logistics
Size: 150 employees
Investment: approximately $8 million
Investors include: Singapore’s Battery Road Digital Holdings, Egypt’s Algebra Ventures, Uber co-founder and former CTO Oscar Salazar
'The%20Alchemist's%20Euphoria'
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Key facilities
- Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
- Premier League-standard football pitch
- 400m Olympic running track
- NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
- 600-seat auditorium
- Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
- An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
- Specialist robotics and science laboratories
- AR and VR-enabled learning centres
- Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
KILLING OF QASSEM SULEIMANI
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm
Transmission: 9-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh117,059
MISSION: IMPOSSIBLE – FINAL RECKONING
Director: Christopher McQuarrie
Starring: Tom Cruise, Hayley Atwell, Simon Pegg
Rating: 4/5
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
ACL Elite (West) - fixtures
Monday, Sept 30
Al Sadd v Esteghlal (8pm)
Persepolis v Pakhtakor (8pm)
Al Wasl v Al Ahli (8pm)
Al Nassr v Al Rayyan (10pm)
Tuesday, Oct 1
Al Hilal v Al Shorta (10pm)
Al Gharafa v Al Ain (10pm)
What is the FNC?
The Federal National Council is one of five federal authorities established by the UAE constitution. It held its first session on December 2, 1972, a year to the day after Federation.
It has 40 members, eight of whom are women. The members represent the UAE population through each of the emirates. Abu Dhabi and Dubai have eight members each, Sharjah and Ras al Khaimah six, and Ajman, Fujairah and Umm Al Quwain have four.
They bring Emirati issues to the council for debate and put those concerns to ministers summoned for questioning.
The FNC’s main functions include passing, amending or rejecting federal draft laws, discussing international treaties and agreements, and offering recommendations on general subjects raised during sessions.
Federal draft laws must first pass through the FNC for recommendations when members can amend the laws to suit the needs of citizens. The draft laws are then forwarded to the Cabinet for consideration and approval.
Since 2006, half of the members have been elected by UAE citizens to serve four-year terms and the other half are appointed by the Ruler’s Courts of the seven emirates.
In the 2015 elections, 78 of the 252 candidates were women. Women also represented 48 per cent of all voters and 67 per cent of the voters were under the age of 40.
Tips to stay safe during hot weather
- Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of fluids, especially water. Avoid alcohol and caffeine, which can increase dehydration.
- Seek cool environments: Use air conditioning, fans, or visit community spaces with climate control.
- Limit outdoor activities: Avoid strenuous activity during peak heat. If outside, seek shade and wear a wide-brimmed hat.
- Dress appropriately: Wear lightweight, loose and light-coloured clothing to facilitate heat loss.
- Check on vulnerable people: Regularly check in on elderly neighbours, young children and those with health conditions.
- Home adaptations: Use blinds or curtains to block sunlight, avoid using ovens or stoves, and ventilate living spaces during cooler hours.
- Recognise heat illness: Learn the signs of heat exhaustion and heat stroke (dizziness, confusion, rapid pulse, nausea), and seek medical attention if symptoms occur.
A State of Passion
Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi
Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah
Rating: 4/5
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